Such is the rise in small wine importers, Harry Crowther says, it's time for the big distributors to start doing more than just looking after them.
I have to be careful what I say here, and as I sit down to write this article, I remind myself that the UK is home to the largest wine supply chain in the world, with contributions from both Davids and Goliaths and everything in the world. between.
The Specialist Importers Trade Tasting, or SITT, is a playground for wine buyers. I don't know how anyone else feels, but this tasting seems to have seriously stepped up its game over the past few years. This is the perfect opportunity to seek out David's wines – if you will – and with them, some very interesting, sometimes unavailable wines that, once tasted, leave you wondering: “How could these guys not have been on my radar?”.
As post-pandemic trade tasting events took off in explosive fashion last fall, SITT was a highlight for me. The end of February this year saw the spring edition of SITT, as wine buyers, sommeliers and journalists packed St Mary's Church in Marylebone in search of gold, and there was plenty to be found.
SITT tastings provide a platform and exposure for independent wine importers
Many of SITT's “independents” are small operators, or teams of two or three men in some cases who champion some very exciting wines from every corner of the wine world. These guys have some sharp palates, and it was hard not to get excited about at least two wines per table – not that I've visited all of them, but from what I tasted, I think that's true.
I twice walked out of SITT and said to myself: “Why aren’t some of these people better known?”
Now this is probably very arrogant of me, and whether they are known to me or not is not a measure of industry exposure. For some, one assumes that the boutique nature of the portfolio has its limits. Working with small producers where quantity is low is limited only in terms of volume, rarely in terms of quality. With smaller teams, there is also no reason to rise to the levels of Goliath wine suppliers, and no salaries for marketing or training and development.
Where am I going with this? I suppose it would be nice to see a lot of these wines (and suppliers) on trade and on the wine list in my local area, if that was their setup. Some, of course, focus only on off-trade, which is fine with me these days.
Maybe it's a wake-up call. To the larger trade groups signing multi-million pound wine supply contracts, I'm talking to you… there's a lot out there.
Please, don't get me wrong, we all need big players sometimes. We rely on them for certain wines and certain price points. While the quality is always consistent (perhaps too consistent), I can't help but get a little bored of seeing the same wine in two different bars less than 200 meters from each other. It's boring.
Retro
Restaurants and specialist wine merchants look for a wider range of wines from a larger network of suppliers
One of the biggest reasons why you should sign a 30-site wine supply contract is the economics. Spend 'X' and we'll give you back 'Y'. We'll also provide a range of training, pay for all your menu reprints and a host of other things that will help you reduce your business costs. Sure, it makes sense.
As average spend grows, and UK consumers continue to look for new wines that will surprise and delight, I can think of a very wide range of suppliers who are well placed to take advantage of this. I'm not trying to mis-market myself here, in fact I'm not selling myself at all and I can't offer a gateway to a bigger business, but I do think there should be less “in return” for 100% of your wine list, we'll give you culture. ..” in the UK’s ever-changing wine scene.
Obviously it's good to make these big agreements, but next time it might be worth negotiating 90% of your list. There will still be plenty of support for healthy spending on wine, but the 10% will widen the net tenfold for a given category. This is an opportunity to see how great the UK wine supply chain is, and if you do it right, your customers will appreciate it too.
network
My recent wine buying adventures have allowed me to open my personal network wider, working with new suppliers I haven't worked with, or in some cases never even heard of. Working with leading suppliers is great, as there is a sense of inclusion and consistency as well as uncompromising quality and value. For these reasons we should always want to work with them. But there's nothing more exciting than finding a little gold in a taster like SITT. It doesn't have to be anything from a small scale product. It could be something surprising like a potential new house white made with Catarratto that you can put on your wine list for £20. Like I said, 10% opens the opposite of Pandora's box.
SITT in five wines
Here are five wines to sum up SITT…
Rascallion '45 RPM' Cinsault Blend 2020, Western Cape, South Africa
fan | £11
A new wave of South African flair from former UK trade operator Ross Slate and with Rianni Strydom steering the winemaking ship, it's hard to go wrong. Cinsault, Grenache and Mourvedre, this wine is light on its feet, low in extraction and extremely capable on the chin. Balance and poise are the name of the game with this ultra-fashionable red. Refreshing acid meets infused dark berries with a hint of leather spice. Very cool.
Raymond Brom “Solitaire” Riesling 2020, Moselle, Germany
Delipo | Suggested retail price £14
Besides Propeller, I think Delibo can also call itself another off-trade specialist. Raymond Brom Riesling “Solitaire” is in one word: gorgeous. Saskia Broome now oversees operations at the winery and is doing a good job. When bone dry, the acid in this wine literally flows across the palate. Citrus laden with aromas of honey and minerals, under the slate, this is a wine that can be transformed
Struggling Vines 'Finca Hapa' Rioja, Spain
Moreno | Suggested retail price £25
It's named after Melanie Hickman's late owner's dog, Hapa, who unfortunately didn't make the trip across the pond from the couple's home in Hawaii. The Struggling Vines Project seeks to revive the lost vineyards of Rioja Alavesa. This is a single vineyard wine made under the region's New Wave banner. Dark cherry and blackcurrant aromas dominate and are intertwined with leathery tobacco and mocha flavors. Lots of energy and attention went through the wine from top to bottom. Vitality.
Bodega Pablo Valabrino “Alma Surfer” Beat Nat 2020, Canelones, Uruguay
Condor wines at SITT tasting
condor | Suggested retail price £15
From the impressive Bodega Pablo Fallabrino comes another excellent wine. Alma Surfer is a blend of Chardonnay and Traminers, making this a super aromatic fragrance. Aromas of peach and golden apple combine with a honeyed golden syrup character. Delicious, smashable and would be insanely good in a glass! Oh, and the “surfer” is Pablo himself – the man. Expect experimental, low-intervention winemaking and wines from this winemaker who also produces Arneis and Nebbiolo!
El Garbi 'Blanco' Garnacha Blanca 2020, Terra Alta, Spain
Vineyard production Suggested retail price £18
From the exciting area of Terra Alta where some exciting projects are still underway. This wine is the brainchild of Liam Steevenson MW who worked closely with a fifth generation botanist to craft the El Garbi range. Raised in 500L French oak for nine months, it has a complex white color and texture with an attractive stone fruit quality. Expect a chalky minerality and subtle acidity to punctuate an intense but beautiful character.
