England's wine industry is reaping benefits from climate change.
Written by James O'Connell
More recently, Jackson Family Wines, Taittinger, Pommery and the world's largest sparkling wine company, Germany's Henkell-Freixenet, have all purchased or planted vineyards in southeast England. Insider wisdom is that other foreign producers, including some champagne houses and a well-known Spanish brand, are actively looking for suitable sites.
Why? Why would anyone reside in a country where the quality of its wine was on par with its (alleged) poor cuisine? “Wine that tastes like rain” was one of the damning indictments of English wine in the late 1990s.
Blame climate change
England has a cool, attractive climate that is more suitable for moderate alcoholism: typically 74 degrees Fahrenheit in summer. Compare this with temperatures regularly exceeding 100 degrees Fahrenheit for weeks on end in a number of European wine-growing regions (not to mention more extreme weather events than ever before; for example, despite now being winter, Spain is in the grip of a widespread drought ). Somewhat frustratingly, the smart money says things will get worse. In comparison, the main challenge facing English producers is excessive rainfall (which has not stopped 2023 from being an amazing harvest).
Having a temperate climate akin to the Champagne region of the 1980s is a big draw, but there are quite a few places that can boast such a climate (if the word “boast” can really be used to describe a constant drizzle…).
So, what makes England the new location for producers who want a safe alternative?
Beneficial conditions
Another attraction is that the chalky soil in parts of southern England is similar to the soil found in the Champagne region. Also, English is the mother tongue and it is useful. In addition, the wine industry in England (and Wales) is going through a moderation phase. It is not so small that there is a lack of infrastructure or trained personnel to support expansion (there are companies to help with cultivation and maintenance, specialist accountants, law firms, colleges, etc.), but it is not so large that foreign producers are frozen out or at a significant disadvantage. .
It also helps that there is an established and growing domestic market for locally produced wine, and that (at least) the country's sparkling wines these days have an impressive reputation for consistent quality. It's also an exciting environment for growing wine: English (and Welsh) producers aren't afraid to experiment and borrow techniques from around the world.
Business is booming
Currently, the vast majority of grapes are grown in the south-eastern region of England (look especially for the counties of Surrey, Sussex and Kent). However, the entire Southeast in its entirety is about the same size as New Jersey. It is well populated. Consequently, land prices are higher: which inevitably means a smaller area for agriculture. This, in turn, favors producers of premium products (Bolney, a producer acquired by Jackson Family Wines in 2022, sells sparkling wines for $39-$50 per bottle, including taxes).
Finally, English producers have also learned from their American cousins, so wine tourism, although in its infancy, is something that is here to stay.
So, come on, the splash awaits!
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James O'Connell
James O'Connell is a partner with Mayo Wynne Baxter solicitors in the south-east of England. that it The team of legal professionals have in-depth knowledge and experience of working with vineyards and wineries, staying up to date with the latest regulations and trends in the UK wine industry and all sectors of viticulture and winemaking.
www.mayowynnebaxter.co.uk / joconnell@mayowynnebaxter.co.uk
