IIn the spring of 2014, I made my first trip to the wine country of Sonoma, California. I will never forget waking up early to take a drive through the vineyards of Knight's Valley, Calistoga and surrounding areas.
Here I began to understand the meaning of the “golden hour”—that short period of time just after sunrise when the sunlight is perfectly spread. Bright yellow mustard was blooming among the vines and meadows, and bright orange California poppies were blooming in that soft, beautiful light—this was the essence of the vineyard fantasy.
But what does this stunning part of the world have in common with the clay soils of the attractive – but much less glamorous – California landscape of Essex?
The answer is wine. More specifically, one of the largest wine companies in the world: Jackson Family Wines.
The Sonoma-based company sells more than six million cases of wine annually worldwide and is currently the ninth-largest wine company in the United States. Barbara Bank, CEO of the family-run company, announced in 2023 that it was in the process of acquiring land in Crouch Valley, Essex, having been interested in the potential of English still and sparkling wine for a number of years.
Essex, and particularly the Crouch Valley, has a remarkably dry and warm climate, making it one of the best places to grow vines, including Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – and the land isn't cheap.
This investment is just one of many foreign wine companies intrigued by the boom in English wine – and that can only be a good thing for us. English wine is bucking the global trend of a general decline in plantings and production. Business is booming here, with UK plantings up 74 per cent over the five years to 2023 – and there could be more foreign investment to come.
London-listed Gusbourne announced this week that its majority shareholder, Lord Ashcroft, is open to selling his majority stake. This follows the announcement in June that Chapel Down, the UK’s largest wine producer, was considering putting itself up for sale as it conducts a strategic review of its business.
Two prominent Australian wine giants have been mentioned in connection with Chapel Down: Accolade and Treasure Wine Estates (although both have denied the speculation). Accolade’s big names include Hardys and Echo Falls, while Treasury Wine Estate can boast Blossom Hill and Wolf Blass, among many others.
What these names bring with them is a huge budget and a global market – both of which help the local wine industry – from established companies to the new wave of producers. For English wine to succeed and ensure its longevity, it needs not only a strong domestic market but also a strong export market.
Big names like Accolade bring a wealth of experience in establishing brands globally. Smaller producers will be able to access global markets (if they have the scale) by raising awareness of English wine. I doubt many Australians, Americans and Canadians are even aware that we produce some of the finest sparkling wines in the world.
Foreign interest in UK wine production is nothing new – Taittinger announced the launch of Domaine Evremond in 2015, with its first product due to launch in spring 2025. Taittinger was the first Champagne producer to invest in the UK, but others have followed, including Pommery, which produces Hampshire-grown sparkling wine Louis Pommery. This was quickly followed by wine giant Henkell Freixenet buying the Bolney Estate, in Sussex, in 2022.
These are big, globally recognised names that can not only make a profit but also generate significant business volumes. As such, there is a real opportunity for UK wine to not only be recognised but enjoyed by a global audience.
The wine industry is a great diplomatic force. It has the power to bring people together, and nowhere is this better demonstrated than by our wines reaching all corners of the world. Let’s make sure we continue to support and celebrate the same potential that these international companies are investing in.
Rosamund Hall (Diploma in Wine Science and Technology) is a freelance writer and wine expert.
