TIt was a common joke among English wine producers: “How do you make a small fortune? Start with a big fortune and open a vineyard.” But if that was once painfully accurate, the booming industry now appears to be on the verge of success.
After years of harsh jokes over its questionable sweet taste, perhaps thanks to rising temperatures due to global warming, quality has improved by leaps and bounds and sales volumes have soared.
With the vast majority of wine still imported, the UK's thriving sector is providing a boost to local and rural economies – as well as significantly reducing its transport footprint.
It was significant that Buckingham Palace officials chose the 2009 Ridgeview Grosvenor from the South Downs in East Sussex as a frosty aperitif for Chinese President Xi Jinping's state dinner, hosted by the Queen, during his visit in October.
The family-owned Ridgeview Vineyard is located in the Sussex Downs, an area where the climate and chalky clay soils are remarkably similar to those of the Champagne region. Dedicated solely to the production of sparkling wines, Ridgeview has won medal after medal (many international) for the quality of its wines and is leading the charge to promote English wine production.
But the newcomers are also on the ground. The growing popularity of English wine has fueled a rush to develop vineyards in the UK, with orders rising by more than 40% last year, according to new figures. Because producers must pay a wine duty, they require a license from HM Revenue and Customs. Last year, HMRC received 65 applications from new entrants, up from 46 the previous year, according to accountancy group UHY Hacker Young.
Experts estimate that an additional 75,000 acres of land across the country – roughly equivalent to France's Champagne region – is ideal for grape growing and could be exploited by new entrants seeking to join the ranks of companies such as award-winning Ridgeview Wine and Polnay.
UK producers have in the past suffered from an inconsistent climate and higher production costs than continental competitors. But last year, local vineyards – now numbering nearly 500 in England and Wales across 4,500 acres – enjoyed a long, warm spring and summer, bringing in high-quality grapes in large quantities.
English wine – which is produced and bottled at home at a much lower cost than imported alternatives – is clearly seen as a positive, sustainable option for both retailers and consumers. Simon Woodhead, who started Stoffam Vineyard in West Sussex in 2007, says sustainability is at the core of his business: “It's important, not just from an ethical perspective, but also to maintain the best natural ecosystem for our vines and, ultimately, our wines. During our work in the South Downs National Park, we can't miss the daily reminder of how important it is to respect and protect the environment we depend on.
Many of our English wines are only stored in branches within a 30 mile radius of the vineyard
Rebecca Hall, Waitrose
There are an estimated 20 to 30 vineyards in England that have taken another step toward sustainability and become certified organic, according to producer groups. In addition to the benefits of producing grapes without the use of pesticides, organic wine also contains less sulfur dioxide. Lee Holdstock, of the Soil Association, said: “It is crucial that sulfur dioxide (as well as inputs and residues of other chemicals often found in non-organic wine) can cause a reaction in many people that feels like a hangover.” “Some people say they don't get a hangover from organic wine – although there isn't any formal research on this.”
Wine boom in the UK
At the conclusion of the UK's National Wine Week – a showcase of the best of British production – Miles Bell, chief executive of the Wine and Spirits Trade Association, provided a useful summary of the state of the industry, while suggesting that many consumers might be too. Unaware of his good health.
“English wine production has seen record levels in the last two years with 4.5 million bottles in 2013 and 6.3 million bottles in 2014. Based on the latest growth figures, this figure is expected to double, with a staggering 12 million bottles of English wine produced each year.” . expected year by 2020.”
Sam Linter, head winemaker at family business Bolney Estates, which occupies 39 acres outside Haywards Heath, admits the weather remains one of the biggest challenges English growers face. “We had a great year in 2014, but this year was wetter and we lost some yield,” she said, adding that there was still a strong collaborative spirit within the industry. “We are not competing with each other. The main competition is from imported wine, as less than 2% of what is drunk in the UK is produced here.
Strong support from supermarkets helped raise the profile of English wine and make it a mainstream rather than a niche product. Marks & Spencer has just added significantly to its range, introducing wines from vineyards across the UK and recently launching its first Welsh wine: Tintern Parva bacchus from Parva Farm Vineyards in Monmouthshire. For Christmas, M&S is selling its first English sparkling wine: the 2010 Ridgeview Blanc de Blancs Magnum
Waitrose, which stocks more than 100 types of English and Welsh wine, reported a 95% increase in sales of local brands in 2014. Rebecca Hall, English and Welsh wine buyer at Waitrose, said there was “real momentum” in the English market. . Winemaking: “The success of English wine is the culmination of the dedication and effort of some talented winemakers across the country who have gradually built our wine reputation from the ground up.”
She added that sustainability was an important consideration for shoppers: “Our customers care about where their food and drink comes from, and enjoy purchasing wines made on their doorstep. Many of our English wines are only stocked in branches within a 30-mile radius of the vineyard, and are personally delivered directly to our stores.” By the product, providing additional mileage.
