Sitting at a large wooden table under the shade of a mighty oak tree, with views of gently sloping vineyards bathed in late afternoon sunshine, it's hard to believe that the UK's fledgling wine industry is facing stormy waters as a result of the Brexit vote before… three weeks. .
These are ancient hills, facing south along the Kent Escarpment at Appledore, just 10 kilometers from the south coast of England. There have been battles here before – against Danish invaders in the ninth century, and the French rebellion of 1380. Things have been smoother recently, at least until the morning of June 24, 2016.
Ashford International Station, where Eurostar trains regularly depart for Paris and Brussels, is a 15-minute drive away, a visible reminder that this part of England has always been linked, both symbolically and nowadays physically, to the European mainland.
“We regularly work with suppliers in France and Germany,” says owner Andrew Weber as we sip his 2010 Brut Reserve at his Gosburn farm alongside a variety of English goat cheeses, cheddars and a lovely crumbled blue. “This means that the cost of many of our purchases, from tractors to small vine plants, rose overnight by 10 percent due to currency fluctuations. But at the same time, the decline of the pound makes us highly competitive as exporters in the international market, and we must focus “It's all about the government's focus on protecting a UK wine industry that has so far developed without the use of large-scale EU grants, but also without much direct help from politicians.”
They are well placed to withstand the shocks in Gosborne. Since Weber launched its inaugural collection of just 6,000 bottles in 2006, the property has been a pioneer in English sparkling wine, winning a host of medals, including the 2013 IWSC English Wine Producer of the Year. Production levels vary year to year due to the fickle English climate, but they are starting to reach 60,000 healthy bottles a year.
The ambition is clear. Approximately 40 hectares of the stunning 200-hectare Gusbourne Estate are planted with Champagne and Burgundy clones of the classic Champagne grapes of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. These are grown almost entirely on south-facing slopes allowing for a relatively dry and sunny environment, with ocean breezes keeping the air moving and allowing the grapes to be dried if necessary.
Two years ago, Weber acquired another 21 hectares of chalky soil in West Sussex as a counterweight to the clay and sandy loam soils here. In all, this would make Gosburn one of the country's largest wine producers – a fact reflected in its listing on the London Stock Exchange.
Although it may take some time, sommeliers around the world are starting to sit up and notice the potential of this wine. Today, about 70 percent of Gosbourne's wine is distributed through high-end restaurants and bars in London and New York, and you'll find it on wine lists in France as well—not just in Paris, but, perhaps most surprisingly, in Bordeaux. It is one of a new breed of dynamic English sparkling wine producers such as Nyetimber Estates, Ridgeview, Coates and Seely, Chapel Down and Camel Valley who are increasingly confident in their production.
“We're past the stage of comparing our wines to Champagne,” says winemaker Charlie Holland. “Today we are doing our own thing, adapting traditional rules to our local climate. It is an exciting phase in English winemaking, as we begin to experiment with which factors work best for us, from barrel age to stirring the sediment to dosage levels for secondary fermentation. All That's a sign that the industry is growing rapidly.
Sparkling wine production now accounts for about two-thirds of total UK wine production, with sales of around £100 million (HK$1 billion) annually. This remains a small fraction of the value of UK wine consumption, but the potential is huge. Is there a possibility that Brexit will have a positive impact on the industry if a falling pound spreads its success abroad? Only if new trade agreements are reached quickly. But there is one good sign – both Ridge View and Chapel Down were named last month as official suppliers to 10 Downing Street, so perhaps we can expect the post-Brexit government to push hard to develop a local wine industry that has been squandering some Problems. National depression.
Wine to try
Gosborne Brut Reserve 2012
This is bright and lean – a perfect aperitif style. From a blend of 42% Chardonnay, with the remainder split evenly between Pinot Noir and Meunier. Elegant, fresh, elderflower and rosehip notes, a lovely mouthwatering quality in the finish. 12 percent father.
Gosbourne 2009 Brut Reserve, late discharge
Being six years old, this displays the taste of biscuits and nougat, with a touch of saltiness that is the classic signature of this establishment. Creamy and rich, more vintage than the 2012, with a warm touch. Excellent aging potential. 12.3 percent father.
Gosbourne Blanc de Blancs 2010
The warm year has given the grapes a beautiful ripeness, but even at a dose of seven grams per litre, the acidity levels that are a hallmark of sparkling English grapes maintain the freshness of the grapes. This is charming, with a metallic edge. Excellent balance, and a beautiful example of what English sparkling wine can achieve. 11.9 percent ABA.
This article appeared in the print edition of the South China Morning Post as: Will Brexit add sparkle or burst the bubble?
