Brothers Victor and David Fernandez de Manzanos have turned their small family business into a successful operation capable of producing 10 million bottles of wine annually.
“We have gone from small wineries with limited production capacity, to a new purpose-built winery and renovated facilities as well as 950 hectares of vineyards, all exclusively in the Rioja appellation.”
This is the story of two young, charming and very disgraced wine professionals, Victor and David Fernandez de Mazanos, who single-handedly transformed their family's business in Rioja from a winery in Azagra with 12 employees to a company (still family-run) with five wineries, employing 160. people and produces more than 10 million bottles every year. Victor, with the support of not only his brother David but also his wife Laura, has created an extensive global distribution network that now exports to over 60 countries – all in a short period of a decade following the sudden death of his father. The family, while very proud of its multi-generational history in Rioja and its championing of local grape varieties also embraces a very modern interpretation of Rioja's great heritage. The transformation of Bodegas Manzanos dates back to 1890 in Azagra. The Fernández de Manzanos family has been planting vineyards and producing wine for more than a century.
From very early on, Victor's vision was to expand his family's business into the international market. Go to Ramsgate's
He improved his English during his secondary education and then went on to study at the London School of Economics. Victor began his career in the UK wine trade by working as an apprentice at Alliance Wine, which has been an agent and distributor for Manzanos in the UK for the past 28 years. During this time Victor's father died unexpectedly and Victor assumed the role of his eldest son
The head of the family and the owner of the property. He was only 20 years old.
Through his commitment to keeping his family's assets together, Victor rose to the challenge and took charge, expanding the business with incredible perseverance, transforming it into an international enterprise.
In the spring of 2016, Manzanos Wines acquired Bodegas Luis Gurpegui Muga and Bodegas Berceo, one of the most emblematic companies
Wineries in Rioja Alta. By this time Victor had already expanded into Navarra by purchasing Castillo de Enériz. In 2018
Victor and David purchased Vinícola Navarra and its Las Campanas and Castillo de Olite brands. Victor, with the support of his family, has built a large business in Rioja in a very short period of time, and at the age of 32, there is no sign of giving up. With business slowing in parts of the world during the pandemic, Victor turned his attention to the US market, opening headquarters in Miami. He has completed renovations to Harrow's oldest winery and opened its doors to tourists this year.
Have you tried?
Mazanos, Vochê Selección Graciano 2017 Voché
“A vine between 20 and 80 years old, planted at an altitude of 400 meters above sea level. Barrel aged in new French and Roman oak for 18 months. Sweet very very hot; Like a bowl of mullet wrapped in a cigar; Chocolate violet candied. White pepper fragrance and a hint of sweet truffle tucked under the chin of creamy praline fruit. Ultra soft and luxurious with a modern flair. Long cashmere finish. Completely arrogant.” – Jancisrobinson.com, Tamlyn Corrin, 17 points
A single vineyard wine of particular interest, the Manzanos Voche range is born from elevated sites in Rioja Oriental. This range is focused, fruit forward and well defined.
Finca Mazanos, Tempranillo 2021
This very good value Tempranillo is one of the UK's seasonal favourites. Made in the fruity style, it is a versatile wine with an intense cherry red colour, ripe black and red fruits, spice, licorice and chocolate flavors and lively acidity. Round and well balanced with fruity notes.
Climate and varieties
Azagra is a city in the province of Navarra. It is located on the left bank of the Ebro River, and its climate is continental with the influence of the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Locations of Manzano's vineyards vary around this area. La Ladera, with its steep slopes and large rhone-like gravel, provides a home for Viora vines over 65 years old, while Los Caballos is planted with Tempranillo shrubs of the same age. Their site in El Barranco is said to have the oldest Graciano vines in Spain, if not the world, having been planted in 1940. The six hectares are located on a 400-metre-high hill next to the Ega River facing south. The soil is poor, sandy and with round pebbles. The roots of the vines are very deep allowing for amazing concentration in the wine. Graciano, a variety that comes from Rioja, currently has only 1,500 hectares of plantings in the world.
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Victor Mazanos weighs in…
What was your biggest challenge regarding taking over the winery?
When I was twenty years old, in the middle of exams in London, I received the bad news that my father had died. I needed some time to come to terms with my father's death, and at the same time, I needed work the next day: it was payroll day. I had no information, my father kept everything in a handwritten book and I not only needed to understand the business, I needed to be mature at the same time and be the head of my family, taking care of my mother and brother – who was just starting university. I was able to study at night in my final year from Spain so that I could finish my studies in London and be there for my family as well.
What are your thoughts on diversifying the wine business? Lessons learned?
If by diversification you're referring to buying wineries and brands with their own identity, history and goodwill, then I think it's very interesting to enrich your portfolio and be able to serve your customers better. When you provide good service and they are happy to work with you, customers may ask you to find suppliers for other products that you do not have. That's why we wanted to grow and be able to provide them with some of the most representative wines from Spain.
How did you adapt your business model when Covid hit?
We definitely had to focus more on off-trade, the large supermarket chains that remained open while the majority of our customers such as restaurants and hotels were not operating. People couldn't go out, at least in Spain, we had to stay in for months, and the only way to buy wine was in supermarkets or online wine clubs. We also saw a huge opportunity in the United States, which is why we decided to open a sales office in Miami to expand our business in America. Europe and Asia were suffering a lot, cities and countries were closed and the market in the US was still working, so we saw an opportunity to try to expand the Rioja and Spanish category there.
You worked in the wine trade in the United Kingdom. Tell us about your experience?
I think the UK has a good knowledge of wine and consumers appreciate and love Rioja. I think the competition among traders is very competitive. However, we are delighted that UK consumers continue to enjoy our wines.
What is the future of Tempranillo in Rioja?
Tempranillo is what Rioja is famous for abroad. Graciano and Garnacha are also two types that we work with often and cannot live without. The blend makes the wine more complex, but Tempranillo is the foundation that provides an easy-drinking style of wine that appeals to most people around the world. Ordering a Rioja is always a safe and elegant option.
What's next for the Manzanos project?
We have recently opened Bodegas Manzanos Haro to the public and this is our first year making wine at this winery, which is the oldest winery in the Rioja region. We would love people to come and visit us in Harrow so they can learn and appreciate the wines we will be making here. I hope everyone will like them.
Alliance Wine is the sole UK distributor for the Bodegas Manzanos range. For the full collection, click here.
