TThe idea of dedicating a column to Ambrusco may seem to you like proof that I've finally lost it, but bear with me. I don't mean Lambrusco – that annoying weed that students drink in the absence of anything better – but real Lambrusco: deep crimson, frothy, and one of the great glories of Emilia-Romagna.
Although still a rare sighting – I couldn't find a single supermarket that stocks one – it is becoming common in New York and showing up in Italian restaurants here. The newly opened Bibo restaurant in west London has it on its menu, and In Parma in central London also serves it in bowls.
So what is attraction? It's beautiful to look at, low in alcohol, wonderfully refreshing – and incredibly good (served cold) with all kinds of salumi and cheeses. Some Lambruscos are fruitier than others, but we're mainly talking about dry wines. A good introduction would be the Wine Society's fantastic Albinea Canali Lambrusco Ottocentonero (11.5% abv) at a wallet-friendly £7.95, which is packed with wonderful dark cherry fruit. (The Wine Association recommends drinking it with pasta peels, fennel, and cream, among other things, which sounds like a delicious suggestion.)
I regularly buy Tenuta Pederzana Il Grasparossa di Castelvetro (the 2013 is 11% abv and £11.95 from Corks of Cotham, in Bristol, and Field & Fawcett in York), and it's not exactly enticing straight away – less fruit, more herbs and herbs. Mineral notes – but more versatile with food: drink it with grilled squid, for example.
And the beautiful 2012 Lambrusco Quarticello Neromaestri I tasted at Bibo turned out to be organic, or “quite dry and earthy,” as the importer says (maybe something was lost in translation there). That means 12% abv and £15 from Noble Fine Liquor. It's worth exploring Italian specialty shops like Vini Italiani (italianwines.com) as well.
So has the old Lambrusco disappeared completely? I thought so, but I discovered a few bottles of Sainsbury's Lambrusco dell' Emilia Rosato winemakers' range sitting on the bottom shelf of my local branch for just £2.50. And you know what? not bad. It's sweet, yes, but not sickly, and at 4% abv, perfect for a children's birthday tea (for you, of course, not for the nipples). This can go well with light cakes, scones or meringues filled with strawberries and cream in every bite as well as the much more expensive Fini Frisante Rosatos varieties in the same store locations at eye level which sell for £8.99. Maybe it's time to rehabilitate Lambrusco?
matchfoodandwine.com
Photograph: Michael Whittaker for The Guardian
